Thursday, August 17, 2023

TULPEHOCKEN 300th ANNIVERSARY TRIP - Chapter Three - July 26, 2023

 MOHAWK RIVER VALLEY, NEW YORK


Mohawk River & Barge Canal, Main Street, Fultonville, New York

We woke early Wednesday morning, checked out of our hotel, and were on our way to Womelfsdorf before 6:00 am. Traffic was light on eastbound route 422 as the sun struggled to burn off the morning fog hanging over the farm fields along the highway.  We made the twenty-minute drive to our cousin John Grime’s home where we planned to leave our rental car. After parking, we stayed in the car because we were about ten minutes early. Soon John’s wife, Harriet, came to the door and invited us inside.

She had set out a lovely and welcome breakfast for us! We left the hotel before the complimentary breakfast was available, so we were happy to sit down and enjoy the spread and converse with Harriet. She was out of town when we met John in 2021 so it was our first meeting. Like John, she is articulate, intelligent, involved in many pursuits, and quite charming. John soon joined us as we polished off eggs, bagels, homemade jam, and fruit to fuel us for the start of our bus trip.

We loaded our gear into John’s car and made the short trek to Conrad Weiser Middle School where our bus was waiting. The parking lot was bustling with activity. Host Paster Bruce Osterhaut was making introductions, co-host Charlotte Moyer was handing out nametags, and travelers were rolling their bags up to the belly of the bus. We joined the group, stowed our possessions, and found comfortable seats across from John in the big brown Elite tour bus. We were soon on our way a few minutes after 7:00 am.



Over the next few hours our driver, Betty, expertly guided our bus over the rolling hills and mountains leading to our destination. Passengers snoozed, chatted, and took in the wooded scenery as we traveled north on Interstate 81/88. We crossed the Pennsylvania state line in about three hours and made a rest stop at the Southern Tier Welcome Center near Kirkwood. It was a perfect place to record our first glimpse of the Empire State. The facility is situated on high ground, providing a grand view of the surrounding rolling countryside. We took advantage of a huge “I ‘Heart’ NY” backdrop to take some photos to document the first part of our journey.


Southern Tier New York Welcome Center on I-81



LaRita & Me at the Southern Tier New York Welcome Center on I-81

Our next stop was at Brooks’ House of Bar-B-Q in Oneonta. Our preordered box lunches were delicious, and we had perfect weather for an outdoor picnic in the open-air pavilion on the property. Lunch was our first opportunity to mingle with other folks sharing in our adventure and we met several delightful people. We were ahead of the estimated travel time to our lodging, so we were able to stretch our legs and relax for a bit before boarding the bus again. 


Picnic Lunch at Brooks' Bar-B-Q in Oneonta, New York
Photo by Carol Deiffenbach Kantner 

Cobleskill

We arrived at the Super 8 Motel in Cobleskill about an hour later. Everyone received their room key, grabbed their luggage, and quickly checked in. The Super 8 was our home base for the remainder of the trip and Cobleskill was the first of our destinations which held special significance in the history of our Palatine ancestors. The area around the town was named after the Palatine immigrant, Jacob Kobel [also spelled Coble], who built a gristmill on Cobleskill Creek which runs through the area. Both the town and stream were named by combining Jacob’s surname and “kill,” which is the Dutch word for stream.

Jacob was the head of one of the 847 families who traveled from the Palatinate to New York as indentured servants to the British Crown in 1710. He was placed in Hunterstown in the East Camp of immigrants on the Hudson River. (We will visit that area on Friday.) He and the other immigrant men were put to work stripping the bark from pine trees in preparation for extracting sap to manufacture tar as waterproofing material for the British Navy. The work proved to be in vain when the pines in the area proved to be the wrong species for the project. Since no income was generated from the support of the Palatines, funding for their food rations was discontinued by Parliament about two years after their arrival. The Germans quickly realized they would starve if they stayed on the unproductive soil near the Hudson River and depended upon British charity. Jacob, his wife and their two small children joined a large group of the Germans who relocated to the fertile Schoharie Valley in March of 1713. They made the forty-mile trek over rocky, hilly Indian trails on foot while carrying or pulling their possessions on sleds.

Jacob settled in Kniskerndorf, one of seven small villages named for the “listmakers” or captains from the camps on the Hudson. Kniskerndorf was located near the place Cobleskill Creek joins the Schoharie River. The immigrants negotiated with the Indians to acquire land but were unaware that the Indians had no qualms about selling the same land more than once. With the help of established Holland Dutch settlers and members of the Mohawk Nation who lived in the area, Jacob and the other Palatines were able to survive until they could clear fields and plant enough crops to be self-sustaining. Jacob and his family would later be among the Germans who migrated to the Tulpehocken Valley in the mid-1720s after their land was once again taken away from them by the colonial New York authorities. 


Afternoon Scenery in the Appalachian Mountain Range in New York State


Our Lady of Martyr’s Shrine in Auriesville


View of the Coliseum from the North Gardens 


We were soon back on the bus and on our way to Our Lady of Martyrs Shrine in Auriesville for the first lecture on our tour. This shrine is one of many sacred places around the world where an apparition or historical event of Christian faith has taken place. Catholics make pilgrimages to shrines because they believe special Divine Grace is attained by visiting places where significant spiritual events occurred. Three French Jesuit missionaries who were ministering to the Mohawks were murdered here in the 1640s.

An excerpt from an article in The National Catholic Register published on July 2, 2016, sums up the historical importance of the Shrine.

The Shrine…sits atop a hill overlooking a bend in the Mohawk River. By tradition, the site is believed to be the location of the fortified Mohawk village known as Ossernenon. The Jesuit martyrs St. Rene de Goupil, St. Isaac Jogues and St. Jean de Lalande laid down their lives sharing the Gospel with the Mohawk Indians. St. Kateri was born here little more than ten years after their deaths. Many other Catholics, less known to history, also suffered torture in order to share the love of Jesus among the Mohawks at that place.


Sanctuary of the Coliseum 


The grounds cover nearly 600 acres and feature lovely landscaping around the numerous buildings on the property. There is a beautiful rock rosary garden and many statues dot the landscape. The crown jewel of the shrine is the Coliseum church, built in 1931 to remind visitors of the Roman amphitheater where many saints were martyred. The sanctuary is spacious with seating for 6500 people and standing room for another 3500. The structure has 72 doors representing the 72 disciples of Christ in the Gospel According to St. Luke. Eight of the doors are double and feature sculpted images of the eight North American Martyrs mounted above them on the exterior of the Coliseum. The twelve main aisles into the sanctuary recall the twelve apostles. The circular area behind the altar represents the stockade where prisoners were held by the Mohawks. Carved crosses on the numerous wooden pillars in the sanctuary mimic the crosses St. Jogues carved into trees in the surrounding forest. A crucifix, statues, marble Stations of the Cross, and paintings adorn the interior space and another crucifix tops the center of the exterior roof. 


Two of the 72 Entrance Doors to the Coliseum 



One of Many Beautiful Statues on the Grounds



Welcome Sign


One of Four Altars in the Coliseum



The Coliseum is on the south bank of the Mohawk River which served as the “highway” of the Native American people of the same name. The river, which became part of the Erie Canal, is visible from the gardens behind the Coliseum. Initially, the canal ran parallel to the river, but when the waterway was enlarged for use as a barge canal, the Mohawk was “canalized” by employing new digging and flood control technologies in the early years of the Twentieth Century. 

Our visit began in the Coliseum with a talk from Museum Manager, Beth Lynch. After her lecture, we had free time to explore the sanctuary and the grounds until it was time to travel northwest to St. Johnsville for dinner at Lombardos Pizzeria Plus. The drive took about half an hour, and we were soon choosing sandwiches, side dishes, and beverages from a bountiful buffet.  



View of the Mohawk River and Beyond from the Shrine Gardens


Trinity Lutheran Church, Stone Arabia

Old Palatine Church, Fort Plain


Old Palatine Church Sign


The Old Palatine Church 
Photo by Ryan Strause

Pastor Elizabeth Aurand spoke to us about the history of the Palatines’ Lutheran and Reformed churches in the Mohawk Valley while we finished our evening meal. The original Trinity Lutheran Church in Stone Arabia was built in 1729 by Lutheran and Reformed Palatine immigrants. They came from the dorfs in Schoharie Valley, but moved to Mohawk Valley, while others migrated to the Tulpehocken Valley in Pennsylvania at about the same time. The original log church was burned by British forces in 1780 during the Revolutionary War. The current church was built in 1792 and is known to house the oldest Lutheran congregation in the Mohawk Valley. Trinity is also the mother church of our next destination, the Old Palatine Church.


Interior of the Old Palatine Church

 

We made the quick five-mile drive to the rural Old Palatine Church on Caroga Creek between St. Johnsville and Nelliston. The congregation was founded in 1749 and the church was erected in 1770 using limestone taken from the nearby creek. It served as a Revolutionary Army camp in 1780 and was spared destruction in the war. The present owner of the building, the Palatine Society, is in the process of restoring the gorgeous interior of the sanctuary. The painted white walls, pews and arched window frames provide a fine contrast with the dark wooden rafters and accents on the furniture. The wine-glass pulpit, organ, and a thirteen-star flag from about 1876 provide splendid focal points in the bright and airy space.


Ceiling Rafters in the Sanctuary

The room was warm, but fans kept the air moving as we were treated to an inspirational church service. Skilled organist, Sidney Chase, opened the service with a prelude on the organ which he helped build! Congregational singing, introductions, prayer, scripture readings, and a homily followed. We heard from a stellar group of ordained ministers and lay people during the memorable evening; Pastors Bruce and Julie Osterhaut, Pastor Dan May, Bishop Lee Miller and Charlotte Moyer.


Cousin John's Best Expression for the Day! 


We finished off the evening with a group photo outside the church. As we stood outside, many of us marveled at the gilded bronze rooster weathervane atop the church’s tall louvered spire. It was first placed on the spire nearly two centuries ago. The rooster is a reminder of human frailty shown in Peter’s three denials of Christ before the rooster’s crow, and the fowl's morning crow as the signal of new light for the world, just as Christ was. 


Weathervane Atop the Old Palatine Church
Photo by Ryan Strause

 

Our Intrepid Group after a Long Day!



Day One Destinations

NEXT - SCHOHARIE VALLEY


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