Milton and Sunbury 2018
Many of the sources I use to tell the story of my ancestors can be found online, but it takes "boots on the ground" to find some essential records and documents. I visited Northumberland County in July 2018 to dig up some of the material used in the McWilliams, Cruiser, Billmeyer, Knauss and Lieb family lines. This is an excerpt of my trip notes beginning in Milton, where John McWilliams conducted business, and on to Sunbury, the Northumberland County seat.
Facade of the Old Harmony Church 1817-1866 |
Our
visit to Milton was confined to a quick drive through town to our destination,
Harmony Cemetery. On our way, we passed the small historic railroad depot which
has been restored to its original glory. The view from the highest point in the
cemetery is magnificent. Beyond the neatly-maintained town, the wooded banks of
the West Branch of the Susquehanna lie under the misty mountain range in the
distance. We visited my great-great-grandparents, Israel and Malinda Werner Lieb in the cemetery and hurried on to our next stop.
View from Harmony Cemetery in Milton |
We left Milton a few minutes before noon. It was a twenty-minute
drive to the county seat of Sunbury and I hoped to complete a visit to the
courthouse and the genealogy library there before 4:00 p.m. Highway 147 took us
on a route parallel to the West Branch of the Susquehanna River and presented a
fine view of the level farmland in the valley surrounded by low timber-covered
mountains on either side. As we approached Sunbury, we crossed the Susquehanna
River twice where it flows on either side of an island near the confluence of
the West Branch and main channel of the river. The Susquehanna was a dazzling
sight – a peaceful shade of blue with sparkling highlights reflected from the
sunlight on the ripples in the water. Quaint metal railroad bridges constructed
of multiple arches mirrored our path over the water. We immediately entered
Sunbury and continued to follow Highway 147 as it snaked along the riverbank
with only a strip of grass and a seawall separating the roadway from the rocky
descent into the wide expanse of water.
Susquehanna River near Sunbury |
We turned onto Market Street and drove toward the clock tower
which was visible atop the Northumberland County Courthouse. The courthouse is
a three-story structure built in 1865 in Italianate architectural style. The
native Pennsylvania brownstone walls are painted white accented with ornate
deep green corbels, cornices and decorative masonry blocks imbedded into the
corners of the building. Tall arched windows and wooden doors trimmed in the
same shade of green add to the beauty of the edifice. A small copper dome
covers the clock tower high above the roof.
Northumberland County Courthouse |
We grabbed a quick lunch at the Subway across the street from the courthouse. I wolfed down my food in hunger and anticipation. I could hardly wait to look for the probate records which I hoped were available in the courthouse. I grabbed my bag containing my notebook, scanner and camera from the car and almost skipped up the steps to the front door, even though I was tired and sweaty after my morning hikes through four cemeteries.
Imagine my surprise when I bounced through the main door and
immediately came face-to-face with two police officers and a metal detector! I
did not expect to encounter this level of security in a such a small town.
Luckily, I breezed through security with all of my belongings passing muster. I
knew my next task was to charm the clerks at the Recorder and Clerk of the
Orphans' Court desk. Their help would be critical to my chances of success in
locating the record books with the probate documents I was seeking.
As I entered the office, the clerks were busily working at their desks. One of the ladies offered to help me and I politely explained that I would like to examine several early volumes of the Orphans’ Court Dockets, beginning with volume 10 from 1849. She escorted me across the hall where she first consulted a computer database and some index books, before declaring that I would need to go to the basement to access the volumes I requested. She would get a key for me and show me the way to the storage area for the old records. I wasn’t sure if this was good or bad news!
I hoped the books were well-organized but was not optimistic
because a contact at the local genealogy society had informed me that it was a
challenge to locate documents there. The clerk retrieved a key from behind her
counter and led the way into the hall, around a narrow corridor and through an
old door revealing painted concrete steps leading to the basement.
Northumberland County Courthouse Basement Hallway |
Holy moly! The cliché description of “dungeon” fit this space
perfectly. The low arched ceiling constructed of red bricks extended downward
to form the walls. Exposed pipes, cables and dim florescent light fixtures
poked through the bricks at odd angles. The hall was essentially a storage area
filled with dusty abandoned desks, chairs, computer tables, other surplus
outdated office equipment and piles of cardboard boxes. The clerk dodged all
the obstacles in our path and opened the door to the vault containing the
Orphan’s Court ledger books.
Northumberland County Courthouse Basement Jail Cell |
At first glance, I thought I was in trouble. The vaults were
originally used as jail cells and this one was cramped, messy and covered with
dust. There were piles of books everywhere. Some were on shelves, others on top
of file cabinets, and many of them looked like they were about to disintegrate
on the spot. We moved on to unlock the land records room farther down the hall.
It seemed to be very neat and organized, but I knew that those records were
online, so I would probably not spend time searching here. After giving
instructions to me to copy or photograph anything I needed, the clerk left me
to my own devices. I would be charged 50 cents per copy when I was finished.
(Honor system, no questions asked!) I pulled out my notebook with the index
entries for the Orphans’ Court records from Family Search. I was hoping to
locate estate documents from 1882 for my second great-grandfather Israel Lieb
and from 1849 and 1881 for my third great-grandfathers John McWilliams and
Benjamin Knauss.
Northumberland County Orphans' Court Docket Books |
I made a quick inventory of the vault and tried to get my bearings
as to the organization (or lack of organization) of the heavy, oversized
volumes. Amazingly enough, the books were not in perfect order, but they were
grouped in almost chronological order and I easily spotted Volume 10 in the
shelves to the left of the doorway. Now I was faced with the conundrum of
deciding where to lay the book to examine and photograph it. There wasn’t an
empty tabletop anywhere and few areas were well-lighted. After lugging the book
around and trying several spots, I finally decided on laying it on an old
office chair that I could roll around to take advantage of the best available
lighting and a power source for recharging my cell phone. In only ninety
minutes, I captured evidence concerning several generations of my ancestors,
their land, and personal property, which had been recorded in fading
handwriting on yellowed pages as long as 170 years ago. I could hardly wait to
study them! In addition, I could hardly wait to sit down to rest my aching back
after hoisting the heavy books on and off the shelves and bending over the low
chair to read and photograph them.
As
I gathered my belongings, I glanced down at my clothes. I was covered in dirt
and rusty red residue from the aging fabric and leather covers of the books. I
was glad I was wearing sturdy clothes suitable for cemetery treks and dungeon
digging! I trudged upstairs, returned the key and asked about the probate files
which were not housed in the basement. The clerk pointed across the hall to a
room with walls totally lined in probate file boxes from the floor to the
soaring ceiling. I could help myself by climbing the ladder provided for access
to the shelves which were out of my reach. I knew the numbers of the probate
files, but the task to retrieve them seemed too daunting for today. I assumed
many of the documents I had just copied would be duplicated in the files, so I
made the decision to move on and perhaps contact an area researcher at a later
date, to decide if anything could be gained from them. I thanked the staff for
their help, paid $12.00 for my digital copies and rejoined my husband who had
been exploring the town square.
Susquehanna River at Front Street in Sunbury, PA |
Note
– A few months after my visit I hired a researcher to retrieve and copy the
probate records of several ancestors from Northumberland County. John
McWilliams’ and John Cruisen’s estate inventories were among the documents I
obtained.